Monday, October 12, 2009

Semarang - Salatiga (Sunday 11 Oct)

After the hectic pace of yesterday, today was more relaxed. Fantastic night's sleep. Woke refreshed. Listened to James Blackshaw, whose music chimes, peals, and shimmers, giving me a sublime start to the day. For breakfast, traditional Javanese food - rice, fried egg mixed with tofu, vegetables and noodles. Ibu and Pak had to go to an official brunch at Universitas Negeri Semarang, so Greta and I had a chance to catch up and chat. Sat outside for the first part of the morning, then shifted indoors once it became too hot (panas sekali). Watched a little TV and checked the emails - a gigantic one from Tallulah about her Circus Oz experience.

For lunch, Ibu made a tomato sambal which proved very hot! After the savoury food we had a plate of fresh fruit, including a papaya that Ibu knocked from one of the fruit trees in her garden while Greta and I were talking away. We had the fruit with rujak, which is basically sambal with palm sugar. Dipped my papaya into the sauce and wolfed it down; initially sweet, then very hot! On learning this, Ibu came over and added more palm sugar to the mix. Greata, meanwhile, had spooned a lot of the original mix onto a separate plate so she could eat the hot stuff. I had the very sweet with an undertow of heat version.

Lunch over, we got ready to head to Semarang. Stopped at an ATM on the way; once again a millionaire. Bapak drove us through his university campus (UNNES), which has 27,000 students. Peaceful on Sunday. From there, to kota lama (the old city); this phrase is used to refer to the original Dutch buildings. Jakarta also has an area called kota lama. Some of the colonial buildings, dating from 1800, are still in use. The old Dutch post office, for instance, is currently being used by Indonesia Post. Some buildings are derelict and are like squats.

We stopped at Gereja Balenduk, a church still in operation. Next to the church is a small park, where couples go for their pre-wedding photo-shoot. No idea if this is the done thing in Australia, but it is the new trend here. The photos will be used on the wedding invitations. Maybe one day Greta will be doing the pre-wed photo op! Not sure if Neil and Olive have gone through this procedure; they have, though, sent out 800 invitations. Weddings are a serious business in Java. Family is important, but so is the social network.

Then, the moment I'd been waiting for. Two weeks in Indonesia and I hadn't used my Mastercard and I hadn't bought any batik. That was about to change. Dyah, from the front office, recommended two places. First, we headed to Toko Batik Keris, where there was a plethora to choose from, mostly reds, browns, and earthy colours. While there, the phone rang - Tallulah! Connection not that great, but still managed to be updated with the news and goings on. Had to talk loudly, so made myself the centre of attention in the shop. The timing of the call was incredible because I'd just been saying to Greta that I wasn't sure what sizes I should buy for the girls. Maybe I'd be better off getter silver bracelets. The collars on the female shirts were too girly for the girls' taste (not to mention mine). Will wait for Solo. Anyway, finished the call, and returned to the shopping. Used cash (which means I only bought 2). Second, to Batik Danar Hadi, a little more stylish and up market. Immediately I saw some purple batik - filed that away. Looked at handmade silk batik - very expensive. Settled on two that were purple; this colour, according to Greta, is the widow's colour. Finally got to use the plastic!

On the way out of the city centre, Pak decided we should try the local cuisine - tahu kapong. Literally: empty tofu. The tofu is deep-fried and there's not much in the middle. Stopped at one of the oldest restoran (the kitchen at ground level, upstairs four tables) in Semarang.


The food is very plain looking. Usually it is served with shrimp or the meat of your choice. Greta ordered mine. I also had a deep-fried egg. Pickled radish comes with the meal, as does a bowl of soy sauce, to which you can add sambal. I did. Enak sekali! (Really delicious). Wolfed it down.

Delaney, I was drinking iced tea, without sugar, not beer! Sugared tea here is really sweet, and a month before I came to Indonesia I had to have a couple of fillings due to my fondness for long black, one sugar. After the meal, Ibu did a big burp, to which I said, "Anda orang Batak," as the Batak are said to show their appreciation of a good meal by burping at the meal's conclusion. Ibu replied, "Saya sopan" (I'm rude!). Laughter, lots of.


Drove throught the rich part of town - candi baru - which is located in the hills of Semarang. Even though Semarang is on the beach, it floods regularly and the soil is not steady. The rich prefer to have flood-free life, away from the beach, whereas in Australia the rich tend to cling to the coast.

Starting to get dark by the time we were leaving the city for Salatiga. Police were pulling over motorcyclists en masse, checking that their bikes were registered. Traffic very busy into Semarang, a little less busy on the way out. Had to refill, which gave me a chance to see three uniforms, each colour designating a particular role: black (security/guide), green (cleaner), and red (petrol pourer). Indonesia has this thing for uniforms.

While being driven through the dark, passed and surrounded by motorbikes of all types, it occurred to me that travelling by bike is one way that Indonesians can be intimate. Families of four (child at the front, dad controlling the handlebars, child, mother at the rear) and three returning home by motorbike, all squashed up. Couples ride by, some holding onto their partners, others not. Some text, some smoke. But everywhere I look, couples on bikes are touching, making physical contact. Lovely.

Arrived in Salatiga about 7pm. Tired, of course. Had a fantastic two days: thanks Pak, Ibu, Neil, Greta, and Olive. Will be seeing Greta again in Jakarta. She enjoyed showing me around because she got to be a tourist and visit the places of her hometown that she had taken for granted and never visited! Greta, if any of the details in here are wrong or I've spelled something wrong, send me an email.

Salad for my second dinner of the everning, unpack, bed.

1 comment:

  1. Daddy is that beer you're drinking?
    from Delaney

    ReplyDelete